This wrap is worked horizontally as a wide scarf and a center provisional cast on, but the
pattern can also be worked lengthwise with more stitches. The yarn used is handspun Icelandic wool…beautiful, soft
and warm for the fall and winter.
Experience Level: Intermediate
Materials: - 920 yds Worsted Weight Yarn - Handspun yarn was used for model (This can be made much smaller with less yarn or with thinner yarn as well)
- US 9 (5.5 mm needles)
Abbreviations:
BO: bind off
CO: cast on
k: knit
p: purl
k2tog: knit t sts together
RS: right side
SK2P: slip 1 st knitwise to the right-hand needle, k2, pass the slipped st over the knit sts.
ssk: (slip, slip, knit) slip 2 sts (one at a time) knitwise to the right-hand needle; return sts to the left -hand needle and knit them together through the back loops
st(s): stitch(es)
ktbl: knit stitch through the back loop
wyif: with yarn in front
wyib: with yarn in back
RT: right twist: knit 2 together, but do not slip stitches off needle, then knit right stitch only and slip stitches off needle.
WS: wrong side
yo: yarn over
Pattern
Stitch: (multiple of 11 + 8)
Set up row 1 (RS): slip stitch purlwise wyif, yo, ssk, place marker, knit to last three stitches, place marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Set
up row 2 and all WS rows: slip 1st stitch knitwise wyib, purl to end.Set up row 1 (RS): slip stitch purlwise wyif, yo, ssk, place marker, knit to last three stitches, place marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 1 (RS): slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, RT, *yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, RT; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 3: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k2, *yo, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 5: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, *yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 7: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k2, *yo, k3, SK2P, k3, yo, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 9: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k4, k2tog, yo, ktbl, yo, ssk, k4, *k2, k2tog, yo, ktbl, yo, ssk, k4; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 11: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k3, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k3, *k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 13: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2, *k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 15: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, *k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, slip marker, yo, k2tog, k1.
Row 16: slip 1st stitch knitwise wyib, purl to end.
Repeat rows 1-16 for pattern.
Instructions:
CO 96 sts with provisional cast on in different colored yarn. (239 for lengthwise wrap). Work in pattern stitch to desired length (or width if making lengthwise). Bind off loosely. If knitting horizontally, remove provisional cast on and pick up stitches. Make sure you have all 96. Beginning with row 1 work in the opposite direction. Bind off loosely. Block, tuck ends and enjoy!
CO 96 sts with provisional cast on in different colored yarn. (239 for lengthwise wrap). Work in pattern stitch to desired length (or width if making lengthwise). Bind off loosely. If knitting horizontally, remove provisional cast on and pick up stitches. Make sure you have all 96. Beginning with row 1 work in the opposite direction. Bind off loosely. Block, tuck ends and enjoy!
NOTE: For the model, I used Judy's Magic cast on instead of the provisional cast on. I wanted to give it a go and it worked beautifully. I cast on, knit a couple of rows on the opposite side I would be working (this provided a little give on the needle), placed the stitches on a holder and continued to finish the originally intended side. Because I was grading colors this mattered for me....would not otherwise.
28 comments:
Thanks for the pattern, Christina! Love it. Love the gradual color change of your handspun. I may have found a use for the Cestari wool I stashed.
I am having problems with row 9 i have tried it over and over again paying careful attention to it and still it is not coming out right...
I have just double checked it and it is correct. Are you using the chart or written instructions? If you're using the chart, you will need to click on it to get the whole thing. Note also that you're really doing a K6, K2 and then K4 at the end.
the chart is correct but the writing is incorrect. with the SK2P according to the chart you are to slip 2 sts to the right-hand needle, K1, pass the slipped sts over the knit st. in row 11, 13, and 15, have uncessesary repeats of sts look over it again because i had to tweek each row as i was going to make the pattern work for me
Dimensions, please.
The completed and blocked dimensions of this version are 27 x 80.
I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but why is the provisional stitch used?
(I guess this pattern is a little advanced for me...?)
Hi Catherine,not a stupid question. Provisional cast on is used because you knit both halves from the middle so the leaves flow out. So since your cast on stitches are still "live", you can just pick them up and knit the second side from the centre. Hope this helps. Enjoy!
Thank you very much. I guess the wording was just confusing me
It is a beautiful scarf. If it is knit lengthwise it is not necessary to o a provisional cast on, is it?
Thank you. Correct. The provisional cast on is just so the leaves move in too directions. Enjoy!
There wasn't an abreviation notation for PRT in your patterns. There was a symbol, but no explanation. Is it just the 2nd part of the RT where you "K2tog,but do not slip stitches off needle, then knit right stitch only and slip stitches off needle?
Hi there. It is part of the right twist. Technically it's a right twist on the right side and a purl right twist on the back which isn't in the pattern but the way I had to make the key wouldn't allow me to remove it and I only put the RT in the written directions. Hope your version is coming out nicely. Enjoy!
I had a terrible time with the written directions. I also have trouble using charts, so I got the chart and the written directions and worked from both to re-write the directions-now all is well. There were errors in about half of the written directions. I really like the pattern.
I'm sorry you seemed to have issues with both. So many have made this without a problem. Hope you enjoy it.
I just found your pattern today and I can't wait to give it a try! I love leaf lace, a bit too much, but I think that this is perfect. Thanks for sharing it!
Thank you, Rebecca....enjoy the knitting!
Hi - just a heads up, the written instructions for rows 13 and 15 have errors in them. If you follow the chart it's correct, however I prefer written instructions, so for all of those that prefer written instructions: Row 13 - the K2 after the asterisk should not be there and row 15 - the k1, k2tog after the asterisk should not be there. Otherwise, a lovely pattern, easy to find your mistakes and fix them. Thanks for your hard work! June
I just found your patern six years later! If I choose to knit it lengthwise, does the pattern need adjustment. Also I noticed inth posts some people finding errors in the written or charted pattern. Have these been addressed with a revised pattern? It looks like a beautiful piece. Thank you.
Hi Shari. I have not re-written the pattern for a lengthwise version. You can add repeats to make it as long as you would like. Enjoy!
Hi Christina, I don't do well with charts and therefore will need to follow the written instructions. I noticed several people saying that rows 13 and 15 are incorrect in the written instructions and am wondering if these have been corrected if I were to download the pattern today?
Sue
Sue, I have not recently re-checked the pattern, but did with each post. If you would like me to do that again, I can, but it will take me a little time. Just let me know.
Thanks.
Row 1 on the chart has PRT on it, but no instructions are given for PRT. PRT does not appear in the written pattern, so I left it out. The stitch count works.
Everything works until row 7.
I got a crash course in chart reading, as I was working row 7 and the stitches weren't working out, and the row was full of apparent increases. Then I took time to decipher the chart and saw that the SK2P abbreviation is wrong. The abbreviation says to sl 1, k2, psso. but it should be: s2, k1, p2sso.
Everything works until row 13. The written instructions for rows 13 and 15 are wrong. You have to go by what is charted. Here are new written instructions for rows 13 and 15:
Row 13: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2, *k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2* rep from * to last 3 sts, yo, k2tog, k1
Row 15: slip 1st stitch purlwise wyif, ssk, yo, slip marker, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, *k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog (until last repeat, k1 instead last repeat)* rep from * to last 3 sts, yo, k2tog, k1
Also note that in the written pattern, the first worked stitch in every rs row is SSK. On the chart it's k2tog. I'm working it as SSK.
I have only done one run through so far - it has taken me a day and a half to get though it. I am about to do row 1 again. I guess I will find out if I am missing something important in not doing PRT.
I wrote the pattern creator on Ravelry because i didn't see the link to do it on the blog page. But this comment says everything that needs saying about the pattern.
I hope my comment helps someone.
Hello. I was having so much trouble keeping the stitch count that I finally put in stitch markers. If you want to use stitch markers between the repeats, the count with the right side facing goes as follows: 3, 13, 11 (repeat), 3
Also I am threading a lifeline after row 16 each time. (grab a contrasting color yarn, cut a nice long piece, thread a yarn needle, draw the line through every stitch *carefully* to get every stitch and not split any yarn!, leave about a foot hanging on either side of the piece)
That way if you mess up really really bad, you can pull back to your lifeline and pick up the stitches off the yarn. This pattern changes on row 9 and row 1, so it might be a good idea to thread the lifeline after row 8 and 16.
Working the row off the lifeline is tricky. Make sure you don't grab your lifeline as you're knitting the stitches. But it's well worth the effort if you're having a lot of trouble.
So it goes like this. Row 1 to 8, thread the lifeline, row 9 to 16, thread the lifeline, *carefully* pull out the lifeline from row 8. Row 1 to 8, thread lifeline, pull our lifeline from row 16, etc.
oh i forgot to say, the markers move over one on row 15 so you have to do some switcheroo until the last repeat. Sorry. I think I am done with comments now. The stitch markers really help!
Oh, an important note about threading a lifeline. Make sure you get into all the stitches, but NOT your stitch markers. Go around those.
and ..
This pattern is really pretty. I can't begin to imagine how to create a pattern, much less one complicated like this one. Well done!
and a last note (right?) to those knitting the pattern: The pattern looks a lot nicer done in a solid color than it does in a highly variegated yarn.
I am having a terrible time with the written pattern. And, no, I don't use charts to knit. When I get to row 9 and it says "yo, ssk, k4..." I have only 1 stitch to knit before being able to do the last 3 stitches. Can you help me? I have started this so many times, and it is always the same. This is telling me that there is an error in the written pattern. Have you found this and has it been corrected? Thanks in advance.
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